A quiet street in the Ano Poli of Thessaloniki

Ano Poli: the part of Thessaloniki the fire did not take

Ano Poli, the upper town, is the oldest surviving part of Thessaloniki, climbing the slope above the modern centre to the Byzantine walls at the top.

An at a glance card for Ano Poli. What it is: The oldest surviving quarter. Why it survived: Above the great fire. At the top: The Byzantine walls. The view: The bay, and Olympus. Allow: Two to three hours. One row is marked out as the thing that decides the visit. The conclusion reads: Ride up, walk down. The lanes are the point. No prices appear.
Ride up, walk down. The lanes are the point.

Diagram by Greece Trips. Free to reuse with credit - CC BY 4.0.

So this is where the city keeps its timber-framed houses, its lanes that turn into steps, and its small Byzantine churches.

What to see

  • The Byzantine walls, running along the top of the district, with the Trigoniou tower and the Heptapyrgion fortress at their eastern end.
  • The view, which is the real attraction: the whole city, the bay, and on clear days Mount Olympus across the water.
  • Small churches scattered through the lanes, several of them within the city’s UNESCO-listed group of Palaeochristian and Byzantine monuments.
  • The lanes themselves, with courtyards, cats, and tavernas that fill in the evening.

How to do it

Walk up, or take a taxi or bus up and walk down. The climb from the centre is steep and long; the descent is a pleasure and takes you back into the city through the churches.

The pace is the point. Allow two to three hours to wander, with a stop at a terrace for the view. Late afternoon into sunset is the hour everyone chooses, and the terraces along the walls fill accordingly.

Where it fits

Ano Poli is the counterweight to the waterfront and Ladadika: quiet, old and residential where those are busy and modern. Our things to do in Thessaloniki page sets out the sequence, and the White Tower and Rotunda below make a natural morning before the climb.

Eating up here is part of the visit rather than an afterthought, which is why our where to eat in Thessaloniki page carries a card in this district.

Last checked August 2026. Monument hours and access change - see our editorial policy.

Common questions

What is Ano Poli in Thessaloniki?

The upper town, the oldest surviving district, on the slope above the modern centre and inside the Byzantine walls.

Why did Ano Poli survive the 1917 fire?

The fire destroyed the lower centre, which was rebuilt to a modern plan, while the upper town on the slope largely escaped the flames.

How do you get to Ano Poli?

On foot up a steep climb from the centre, or by bus or taxi to the top with a walk back down, which most visitors find easier.

What can you see from Ano Poli?

The city and the bay below, and Mount Olympus across the gulf on clear days.

How long should you spend in Ano Poli?

Two to three hours, including the walls, a few churches, the lanes and a stop for the view.

Next

Read things to do in Thessaloniki, the White Tower, or where to eat in Thessaloniki.